Organic Wormer for Chickens, geese, goat, lamb and all ..

Do you keep livestock? Having any problems? Want to talk about it, whether it be sheep, goats, chickens, pigs, bees or llamas, here is your place to discuss.
Camile
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Organic Wormer for Chickens, geese, goat, lamb and all ..

Post: # 19107Post Camile »

Hi everyone,

Would you know by any chance any organic wormer for the animals listed above .. and would be great if I could organically worm them .. and one product for them seems ideal ..

Anyone ever tried that kind of things or do you just use the standard wormers ?

Thanks,
Camile

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Post: # 19108Post Shirley »

Hi Camile

I haven't used it myself but on a poultry forum that I used to post on diatom was recommended by quite a few... looking at this article on spr it seems that it's suitable for other animals too so could be perfect.

DIATOM (Diatomaceous Earth )

We now have a Brand New Addition to the family called, DIATOM, which may be used in conjunction with Poultry shield. This product is produced in a fine granular form and when added to the animal bedding or floor, it assists in further controlling of Red Mite and many other parasites. It has high absorbent qualities and helps control unpleasant odours . It can be dusted on pigs, put in poultry dust baths or rubbed well into coats of horses and household pets, against fleas, lice and red mite. It can be used as a dust spray to control massed flies in fields and on manure and compost heaps. Dust at the rate of 10 kilos per acre in quiet air. DIATOM is a natural product and is formed from millions of microscopic single cell algae. It can be fed safely to all animals or used as a dust spray for parasite control, the action being strictly mechanical. Its microscopically sharp edges pierce the protective coating of the organisms. The parasites dry out in a few hours and die.

For liquid sprays, mix 1 kg per 5 litres of clean water and agitate while using.

DIATOM can be used as a feed supplement.

1) Increases digestibility of the feed.

2) Helps in supplying adequate minerals.

3) Aids in a greater utilization of feed value, it will save on feed as less passes through the large intestine as waste matter.

4) Causes noticeable better health in animals with less sickness and a faster growth gain for the table market.

5) An absence of internal parasites in the intestines and faeces of animals.

6) An effective wormer because worms and soft bodied insects are unable to withstand the killing action of Diatom.

7) Contains many mineral traces making it acceptable for animal nutrition.

Feeding Rates.

5% Poultry feed. 2% Pigs, Goats and Sheep. 5oz in Horse Rations and one large heaped teaspoonful per day for dogs over 25Kg. For smaller dogs and cats, one level teaspoon per day in their feed.

SPECIAL OFFER PRICES

Sizes 500 gram Shaker - £6.29 + p&p £2.50. 2Kg Tub - £17.69+ p&p £5.00. “NEW “ 6kg Tub - £42.60+ p&p £8.50 “NEWâ€Â
Shirley
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Post: # 19111Post Camile »

Hi Shirlz,

Thanks for that .. I'll check it out on Ebay because it seems like a good product .. and hopefully you will still be able to eat the eggs after that .. because apparently with some "chemical" wormers .. you can't eat the egg for at least 7 days .. wich is quite annoying ...

I was reading on a French forum that putting Garlic (don't get me started) in the drinking water would act as a wormer .. Have you ever heard of that ?

As would cider vinegar good for coccidies ... they also mentionned something about Essential Oils but there was no details of what oil and how !

Will keep you posted ..

Camile.

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Post: # 19113Post Millymollymandy »

Garlic and cider vinegar and mentioned a lot in relation to poultry and horses! Cider vinegar (at least with horses) is supposed to help against biting insects and I 'think' it is the garlic that is the natural wormer.

I suggest you Google both of them. I've even started taking a teaspoon of cider vinegar myself every day in the hope it might stop ME from being bitten to death by insects!!

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Post: # 19114Post Camile »

Hi M3,

Let us know if it works for the insect bites because the midges will soon wake up .. and sometime I would bang my head on the wall just because it's so itchy !

Thanks again .. will Google the garlic and see what I find out ..

Camile

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Post: # 19121Post Boots »

Hi Camille,
I use garlic for goats and ponies and permanganate of potash (condies crystals) for poultry every 3 months.

But - when all animals first arrive they are quarantined and treated with a commercial wormer.

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Post: # 19124Post Camile »

Hi Boots ..

Thanks for that .. much appreciated ...

So you don't use Garlic for the poultry do you ?

And how much garlic to do you give to the goats ? and how do you give it to them ? a clove in the drinking water ? or get the goat to eat it ?

Thanks again ..
Camile

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Post: # 19131Post Boots »

I chop up fresh cloves and let each goat or pony have as much as they want. Usually they will just have a few cloves, one time one goat has eaten 3 full bulbs!

A pinch of condies is added to the water for the poultry - just enough to turn it pink. I imagine it would be very costly for me to feed my flock garlic, and am not sure how I would ensure they all got some. It would be ok for someone who only had a few, I think. When I worm with condies, their water is restricted to it for 24 hours to ensure they all get some.

I have tried growing garlic and have not had much luck. I should try again...

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Post: # 19132Post Camile »

Hi again ..

Thanks for that once more ....

So a couple of cloves every 3 months and they should be wormed. . .cool .. and I believe you never had any worms problems since you use this technique ?

And the condies would act as a wormer as well would it ? because I found this that talks about condies, but for Coccidiosis ... nothing mentionned about worms ...

See link: http://www.motherearthnews.com/library/ ... icken_Tips

Camile

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Post: # 19133Post Boots »

I went natural, very slowly, as I was just plain afraid of chancing a worm infestation, because we farm quite intensively and produce meats. I didn't like the idea of chemicals in our animals and soil, any more than I did worms though, so took it fairly slowly. The whole transition took about a year and they have been treated naturally for about a year and half now.

I pen for worming, hold the livestock in the pen and rotate on the second day, to gaurd against any re-infestation. This is pretty important. If you leave animals on contaminated ground they are wormed, but not for long. This goes for any treatment.

The goat pens are then left dry for a week or two, before the pig goes in.

I can say it works, as I always look for evidence (which is easier to see with the ponies) and am able to explore a little more thoroughly during the butchering process. I'm sorry, I realise there will be some who don't like the thought of that, and I don't want to offend anyone, but you did ask if I believed it worked... and that is the best way to really know.

Condies has also ensured the all clear for the poultry. Do your own experiments though, and always be on the look out for signs that the animals need it. Any sign of scouring or clumping, I always provide garlic straight away, even if it has only been a month, just in case they want to self medicate. I believe they do that.

Another few tips (for goats) to help them with self medicating...

Charcoal (Burned log) provided in pens, permits animals to self medicate to address scouring that has resulted from a poor feed mix or an overload in a particular cut feed.
Bi-Carb is essential, to assist in the prevention of bloat that can sometimes result from an overload of bulk or foreign feeds. If you notice goats accessing the bi-carb, increase long stemmed grasses or wide leaved foilage to activate stomach action.
Citrus leaves and branches are a good source of vitamin c when goats show signs of lethargy or have sustained an injury.
Co-conut husks provide a good source of oil and add condition and a quick sheen to coats that are looking tired, especially good after kidding.

Some of that might be useful.

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Post: # 19137Post Camile »

Thanks Boots ! you are a Star ! this is exactly what I needed ..

Because the goat and lamb are both about 3 months old, so perfect time for worming .. and therefore they will be naturaly wormed straight on ..

And I love the self medicating part .. and believe it as well because you are not the first one I hear talking about it ...

And just one last question if I may ... if it's use for goat, poultry, horse and all .. so I believe I can give some to the lamb and rabbits as well ? Geese being included in Poultry ...

As for the butchering part, no offence at all, even though so far I wouldn't be able to kill any of my animals .. I'm a bit of a softy .. I cried when we lost one hen ... :cry:

But I'm getting into the idea of doing it .. because this is a big part of the self sufficiency .. unless you turn into a Vegetarian ..

So this Week end, I'll take out my french flag and chop a good few cloves and that will be them sorted !

So thanks again for those infos !
Camile

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Post: # 19138Post Boots »

Let you in on a secret...

Just because I produce meat... doesn't mean I don't cry.

Ssssh!

I name them all. I hand raise them all. They are all lead trained and come to their names. I love them all. I know my animals as well as I know my kids. Folks don't get that, but it is true.

Our meat is very good. It is raised on lurve. :dave:

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Post: # 19382Post Camile »

Good morning ...

Wow .. fair play to you Boots ...

Because it must even be harder to give them names .. then eat them .. because I suppose to eat some of it yourself ...

Do you "butcher" them yourself as well ?

I'm pretty sure for me this wouldn't work out for now .. if I give them a name and all .. I kind of reserve a place for it's burrial ground !

But that's good to hear that it's possible because I believe you when you say your meat is good .. I'm sure it's the best one is Ossie !

Thanks again for the tips .
Camile

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Post: # 19389Post Stonehead »

Boots wrote:Let you in on a secret...

Just because I produce meat... doesn't mean I don't cry.

Ssssh!

I name them all. I hand raise them all. They are all lead trained and come to their names. I love them all. I know my animals as well as I know my kids. Folks don't get that, but it is true.

Our meat is very good. It is raised on lurve. :dave:
We're the same, although I'm slightly more pragmatic about slaughtering the poultry or taking the lambs and pigs in to the abbatoir.

Our breeding animals get a bit more hands-on affection than the eating ones - mainly because I don't want the latter to be to friendly around the abbatoir workers. They can handle it when the animals are just animals, but friendly, affectionate individuals can give them the heebie jeebies.

Our Berkshires are total tarts - if I go out without a feed bucket they assume it's belly rub time and in a matter of seconds you have three big pigs belly up in the sun, all grunting to be first. How can you resist?

We don't keep any animals as pets, mainly because we can't afford to. Everything has to earn its keep but that doesn't mean we don't treat them well. Hence my sig!

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Post: # 19393Post Camile »

Well so I believe the first animal you slaughter is the hardest one isn't it ? and then you get used to it ...

I'm glad to hear these comments because I would love to have a few chickens on the table .. but thought I would be too much of a softy ... but if you made it ! hopefully I will too ! maybe with a few tears ...

And it's more ethical in a way .. the animal has a nice and happy life .. and ends up in the pot because it's his "purpose" afterall ..

I still don't know how I will react when I'll have the first chicken in my plate and my fork in the other hand .. will see ...

Camile

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