Conflicting growing systems

[seasidegirl]

This is my first full year in a new (to me) garden and one part of it in particular is very neglected. I decided to use the no-dig method of potato growing (through cardboard and mulch layer) and completed my first bed today. Hurray.

BUT... I'm now worried about the number of seed potatoes I purchased and have chitting. This no dig system is all very well but if I cover too much area then I will be causing problems next year because I will have a lot of soil that I can't grow potatoes in. I've thought about growing a fair few in containers but then the soil that's left will have to go somewhere - potato free.

I've also been researching companion planting and wonder if this causes problems sometimes with crop rotations.

Possibly I'm thinking too much because I'm now thinking about eating some of the seed potatoes.

Anyone have similar dilemmas?

[MKG]

I used to have the same worries all of the time when I started - it's normal. And you're right - if you try to follow all of the advice (and good advice it is) then you end up in a situation which contradicts the very advice you're following. (I know that looks confused, but Seasidegirl will know EXACTLY what I mean).

What it boils down to, I think, is that there are certain principles which apply in a general way but aren't necessarily to be religiously followed. I know lots of people who grow spuds successfully year after year in the same spot. They do it with cabbages too, but they remove a spadeful or two of soil and replace it before planting.

Crop rotation was never developed to avoid disease - it's simply a way of allowing the land to recover by taking advantage of the fact that different plants have different feeding requirements. But nutrient replacement works just as well. And there's no law which says that just because you're growing a crop in the same ground as last year, you WILL get disease.

So, be aware of diseases and nutritional requirements (but not neurotically so) and move your planting areas when you can rather than when you think you MUST. Over time, everything will balance out and you won't have a nervous breakdown.

Mike

[Millymollymandy]

Don't eat seed potatoes if they are bought ones which have been treated - I think most are, and say on them not to be eaten. Mine wouldn't make much of a dinner though, that's for sure (I am always amazed how big they are in the UK when I see them being planted - ours are tiny - but at least fit into my egg boxes to chit!).

Also if you are doing that method with potatoes you will have to find an enormous amount of material to cover them with. You can always chuck a few seed potatoes if you have too many, ditto onions. I do.

[seasidegirl]

Very reassuring - thanks.

I've had another idea to get around this potato problemand that's to plant them (where I'm using them for ground clearance) closer togethe than normal. This was the main reason for growing more than usual and the spuds this year will be a perk so if I plant them closer hopefully I'll make that cultivation system work well in the reduced areas I use it. My mulch is highly nutritious so that should help.

Then I can use more areas for other crops and work roate a bit more next year.

Thanks.

[seasidegirl]

Thanks M, we posted together. I didn't know they weren't edible although I was wondering there might be a reason not to.

My mulch is pretty thick, although I didn't measure. I've got newspaper and cardboard with half rotted leaves, seaweed and horse manure. I soaked it well but just hope it doesn't dry too quickly and blow about. Husband suggested a plastic sheet but I'm trying so hard to avoid plastic.

Used it before as a mulch and it ripped up eventually and was a horrible job to pick up (big area) and then of course it can only go to landfill.

[sortanormalish]

If you are growing a long season variety, you only need some straw and not to be concerned as much about the degradation of the soil because you are going to return quite a bit to the area in a few months. This method works extremely well for me. Remember that potatoes form above the seed, not below. You plant the seed just a couple inches below the soil then mulch as it seems you have. You can sow them rather close together as well. When the vine is 6-8 inches high you cover it half with straw and just keep doing that until the vine flowers. After the vine dies back, harvest is very easy and the straw goes either to winter bedding for the animals or into the compost heap, your choice. Of course, if you use it for animals first it will break down much faster and add a heap of organic matter to your soil. I realize that you may have to buy the straw, but when you consider it as an investment into potentially three different areas of production, you get a lot for a very little.

You can use this method on the ground, in a wire frame, a wooden box or even a garbage can-just drill drain holes and tilt to let the sun in on the plant.

[seasidegirl]

Thanks. Good points. Not sure if I can get reasonably priced straw here and I haven't got any animals to use it for (sadly).

Mind you another good use for it suggested in the 'composting toilet' thread.