
I know they had different numbers, what I don't know is what each number meant in terms of the different mixes.
- Maybe it won't disappear in a peat soil but why would you need to add it to it? Put peat into clay soil and it's back to clay very quickly, unlike good old compost or manure. Peat is not very biologically active, that is to say it doesn't contain many microorganisms. These are what release nutrients from minerals and plant matter in the soil and turn it into a form the plant can take up. A high acid soil improver, like peat, inhibits the growth of microorganisms and as a result is LOW in fertility. Peat is only good for holding onto water, nothing else.Plus I also take issue on your dismissal of using peat as a soil improver ... peat can't disappear ! The very fact that it get absorbed within a few months surely means that it is a very good soil improver
- It is as much for the increased solar energy and flat easy to plough lands as anything else. Check some Norfolk postcodes on this http://www.landis.org.uk/soilscapes/ - doesn't seem that fertile to me!and if peat in the soil is so bad ... how come the fens are so sought after for commercial vegetable growing ?
Don't get me started on that subject, haver you come across 'degradable' packaging? It breaks down into tiny pieces proving a bigger environmental hazard than non-degradable packaging.what gets a rise out of this old git is environmental tokenism
yeh I've used both.. the new one is much less woody isn't it? big improvement. - but for big seeds.. the woody one works out too.Dave wrote:Hello Nicky, have you tried the vegetable compost from New Horizon? It's much better than the woody one.
Oh yeah, I bought a load of that last year, it was rubbish. One to avoid!Rosendula wrote:some really poor-quality peat-free compost I got from B&Q that was slimey when wet, and formed a solid block that still looked moist when it was dry and was totally useless