A great way to increase the productivity of your plot is to sow early crops either before or after main crops. With the seed catalogues arriving and the dark evenings its time to start planning my crops for next year. This year I have grown on a 4 year rotation which I am sticking with. My plot is divided up into 16 beds.
1st Quarter Spuds
1 bed of 1st ealrys
1 bed of 2nd earlys
1 bed of maincrop
1 bed of late maincrop
2nd Quarter leguimes
1 bed of peas
1 bed of broad beans
1 bed of runners
1 bed dwarf french
3rd Quarter Brassica
1 bed of spring/summer cabbage
1 bed of swedes and turnips
1 bed of broccoli and cauliflower
1 bed of winter cabbage and brussels
4th quater Misc
1 bed carrots
1 bed parnips
1 bed globe artichokes
1 bed of sweetcorn/caugettes and squash
Im thinking of putting leeks in after my 1st early potatoes.
Im thinking of raddish with parsnips.
Does anyone else have any good sugestions of good catch cropping crops?
Cheers.
catch cropping
- gregorach
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Re: catch cropping
I find other hardy alliums (Japanese onions, garlic, overwintering spring onions) are handy because they go in quite late - September to October usually. Of course, they'll be taking up bed space until May or June, but you can follow them with your late / overwintering brassicas... Then there's the "oriental greens" - mizuna, pak choi, giant purple mustard, etc - which really prefer being planted after mid-summer and can provide fresh greens through the winter. And it's always worth considering green manures if you have space that's going to be lying empty...
Cheers
Dunc
Dunc
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grahamhobbs
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Re: catch cropping
Harismow, I notice you are not growing onions or garlic and you have globe artichokes in your rotation, whereas it is a perenial. Your traditional catch crops, in the sense of being quick and fitting in between other crops are the fast growing things like lettuce, radish, small carrots and beetroots, oriental vegetables, and perhaps turnips. But I think the main thing is not to see your rotation as a static thing for the year, things are going in and coming out throughout the year - you should be able to get at least 3 crops within 2 years on each bed. I have some 30 beds, but rarely are there 6 beds empty even in December.
Leeks and parsnips are finished by May
Overwintering brassicas, winter/spring cabbage, broccoli of various types, cauliflowers, etc can be clear by June
Garlic and japanese onions, overwintered can be lifted in June
Broad beans and peas sown in autumn can be cleared by July (even some of the fast spring sown ones are almost as quick)
Then after these dates much can go in, especially if raised in modules
Brassicas
Leeks
French beans, runner beans, dried beans, more broad beans
Pumpkin
Courgettte
Cucumber
Fennel
Turnip
Kolh Rabi
Swede
Beetroot
Edive, chicory
Oriental veg
Overwintering salads
Leeks and parsnips are finished by May
Overwintering brassicas, winter/spring cabbage, broccoli of various types, cauliflowers, etc can be clear by June
Garlic and japanese onions, overwintered can be lifted in June
Broad beans and peas sown in autumn can be cleared by July (even some of the fast spring sown ones are almost as quick)
Then after these dates much can go in, especially if raised in modules
Brassicas
Leeks
French beans, runner beans, dried beans, more broad beans
Pumpkin
Courgettte
Cucumber
Fennel
Turnip
Kolh Rabi
Swede
Beetroot
Edive, chicory
Oriental veg
Overwintering salads
- Green Aura
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Re: catch cropping
I wondered about the globe artichokes too. Wouldn't they be better in a flowerbed, or dedicated area of their own?
I'd stick alliums in there somewhere, unless you don't eat them, of course. I know many people following strict Ayurvedic principles don't, or those with allergies.
Nothing much to add to the other suggestions - catch crops don't affect your rotation because they're so quick growing so anything/ anywhere!
I'd stick alliums in there somewhere, unless you don't eat them, of course. I know many people following strict Ayurvedic principles don't, or those with allergies.
Nothing much to add to the other suggestions - catch crops don't affect your rotation because they're so quick growing so anything/ anywhere!
Maggie
Never doubt that you can change history. You already have. Marge Piercy
Life shrinks or expands in proportion to one's courage. Anais Nin
Never doubt that you can change history. You already have. Marge Piercy
Life shrinks or expands in proportion to one's courage. Anais Nin
Re: catch cropping
Thanks for that Graham lots of good suggestions there. Your right I need to start planning on a seasonal rather than yearly basis. 3 crops in two years for every bed is a good target to aim for. The reason I haven't included onions and garlic is because they didnt do great this year and I don't think homegrown ones taste significantly better than shop bought. However if I can fit them in with other crops on a two yearly plan I will do. The more homegrown veg the better in terms of food miles/knowing whats gone into your veg etc. As for the globes I didn't realize they were perennials I haven't grown them before. I have some spare space but I was planning on putting more soft fruit there. Hmm decisions decisions.
Re: catch cropping
I wouldn't contradict Graham,(so far!) but would add that in the UK at least,Globe artichokes do have a limited life,after a few years they produce less and less worthwhile crops so sow some more every 3 years or so to replace your current plants.Or divide with a sharp spade.
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grahamhobbs
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Re: catch cropping
Old Jerry, of course you are right. What other crops can you put in a 3 year rotation? Strawberries, welsh onions, perhaps some herbs.....
