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Ok, we have an old apple tree on our plot and after chatting to the guy who had it last year apparently it doesn't produce much of a crop. I appreciate it's old and it was starting to get swamped by an elderberry bush (now cut right back but too tangled to dig out) and was wondering if anyone could offer idea's of the best time and way to prune it and if that would help? It currently has some beautiful blossoms on it but they are only in certain area's.
All help gratefully recieved!
mithril.

My parents have had apples trees for years and they stopped producing much of a crop. So they planted a few more making 4 apples trees altogether and the crop has improved.

we inherited some ancient and ivy covered apple and pear trees with our garden - we got advice from a pruning man - so I am no pruning expert but what I learned is:
1 its not as technical as all that
2 don't try and repair the tree in one go, work on a section, maybe a third, and leave the rest till next year, doing one section a year.
3 what you are aiming at is each branch to get light, so if there is crossing over etc, choose which branch is best and prune back the rest
4 when choosing which branch to cut - go for dead or diseased first
5 don't treat the cut parts with anything
6 prune in Jan/Feb

the tree of yours might still bring enjoyment - with blossom and birds etc even if you dont get any fruit.

I'll second everything that Red said, except that you can prune earlier. As soon as it's finished fruiting if you want to. If it's a standard tree (i.e not trained in any way) then you want to end up with a shape a bit like a wine glass (often referred to as a "goblet"). This is basically a central trunk with the side branches coming off regularly around the trunk and the centre being open to allow air and light to the branches.

Keep the base free from any other plants, that might help.

Cheers
Zoe

Thanks guys. There's some great great stuff there so this year I'll see how it goes and keep an eye on it then it'll give me a better idea of where to start on it when I prune it.
That's a useful list Red, thanks!
mithril.

of course, one way to increase all your fruit harvest is to get some bees :)

This is from a book of mine.
The erect pyramid type of tree with fruiting arms has the following advantages over the vase-shaped tree:
(a) The upright leaders encourage strong growth.
(b) Few leaders-four-mean greater strength in each.
(c) The strong, erect leaders do not bend outward and break, nor do they require propping.
(d) Fruiting arms are developed on the outsides of the leaders to increase the fruiting area within easy reach from the ground.
(e) Sturdy fruiting arms do not need propping.
(f) Well placed fruiting arms provide plenty of space for the production of laterals.
(g) Fruit is carried on the outside of the ring of leaders and is better exposed to sunshine for the developement of full colour and flavour; the fruit is more easily harvestered than if it is grown inside the ring of leaders.
(h) Because there is no overcrowding of growth, there is good light penetration throughout the tree to encourage maximum fruit bud developement.
To promote the new growth necessary to maintain a supply of young, healthy fruiting wood a proportion of the old and spent wood must be cut out each winter. Clusters of old spurs should be heavily thinned and any long and barren laterals should be shortened well back to a healthy bud.
This system of pruning is known as refurnishing, and for apples and pears it should be done over a six- to eight-year cycle. In brief, the lateral shoot is grown, encouraged to fruit early, and, after a short fruiting life, is cut back and renewed; the cycle then begins again.
Old trees that have stagnated and are devoid of new growth may be rejuvenated by the foregoing method of refurnishing.

Robin

Aha
I've just googled this to find out what a pyramid shape is.

http://www.weekendgardener.net/how-to/p ... -trees.htm

That makes sense, provided the main leader hasn't been removed in the past or there is another upright branch that can be used in its place. I would worry about the whole tree getting too tall but you would just have to be ruthless. It does look quite attractive.

I have one tree that's quite young and still has it's main leader. Maybe I'll try the pyramid shape and see how it goes.

Zoe

That's great, thanks guys. I think it still has the main leader and the branches are well spaced but there is about 1/3 of it which has no growth on it but that side of the tree has a black fungus on it so I'll try to identify that first!
Thomzo, that's a good link, we're planning to get some more fruit trees for the other plot so that info will be very handy! Thanks.
mithril.

i remember reading somewhere, that apple trees produce fruit on horizontal branches. so pruning to encourage more sideways growth should increase productivity.
andy

Apples can be trained on wires either as an espalier or cordon. This method allows more trees to be planted in a small area. They can be out in the open or up against a fence. More work is involved in the training, but the fruit is easier harvested.

Robin

I'll add a couple of things if I may ...

Clear around it, that elderflower has to go, apples are generally not good competitors, clear undergrowth & then mulch around it.

Feed it -- fish, blood and bone & sulphate of potash (although it should be fed during the winter rather than now) -- a job for next year :)