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I work from home - my 'office' is a wooden shed in the back garden. Its great in the summer but now its freezing!

I got myself a wood burning stove and want to light it but I can't find a sensible/safe way of getting the flue pipe through the wooden roof. I am using 4 inch stove enamel pipes.

Has anyone got any suggestions that don't cost a fortune?

Can you use a sheet of metal to replace part of the roof of the shed, several inches bigger than the flue pipe, and put the flue out through the centre of that... do you know what I mean?

I don't know much about these things, but that sounds reasonable...

Annpan wrote:Can you use a sheet of metal to replace part of the roof of the shed, several inches bigger than the flue pipe, and put the flue out through the centre of that... do you know what I mean?

I don't know much about these things, but that sounds reasonable...

You have the right idea but its getting hold of the right materials and then making a heat-proof, weather-tight seal that is the problem (tools for working with metal would be a problem too).

There is a UK stove manufacturer who make stove fittings for yurts, tents and teepees. I can't remember their name and don't have time right now to find it, but I'm sure a bit of searching will turn something up.

You can buy the sort of contraption that Annpan describes. Try a fireplace specialist. They might resist selling you anything if you say it's a wooden shed. I have a feeling that there are now regulations about log fires in timber buildings but I might be wrong.

Zoe

If you have wooden beams in the roof you need to cut a section of roof out and insert a slab of concrete about 2ft square between the beams with a hole in the centre to take the flue then cover the concrete with metal or tiles to form a watertight seal, and you must either put a sheet of steel or again a concrete slab under the the stove to catch falling embers.

If you use mastic to stick the metal to the concrete on the roof keep the mastic 12inchs from the flue pipe.

Dont use a metal plate in a wooden roof. The metal might still get so hot that it fires the wood.

Better to use a cement or ceramic section. If an insulated pipe in installed into this, then you should be ok from the point of view of fire risk.

The alternative is to through the wooden wall and build a ceramic/brick chimney on the outside of the hut. This wouldnt be hard to do. But it might not be the cheapest or easiest solution.

you need one of these

http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burn ... hings.html

I'd suggest putting a 90-degree turn in the pipe and go through the wall. First, its easier to do without making the roof leak. Second, that bend will help capture and radiate some of the heat that would otherwise be lost through the chimney.

I would suggest getting a slightly oversized piece of flue pipe with a flat base plate. Make your roof penetration roughly this size and fix it internally. If you place your terminal on this piece, then your actual flue can come up through the centre of this unaffected. Or can you modify a twin-walled flue for use all the way. They are not overly expensive.

You can then buy a "Dektite" which is basically a rubber cone which you fix and seal at the base onto your roof-top and cut the penetration hole for a tight fit around the external flue.I hope this makes sense, or pm me and I'll try to sketch a diagram for you.

http://www.wasteoilheaters.co.uk/waste- ... ktite.html

I also have a wooden shed out in the garden that I work in, I would recommend getting some insulated flue pipe to put out through either your roof or wall. We chose to go through the wall as the roof wasn't the easy option. And as the length of flue is generally shorter than that you would be using in a house it creates an incredible amount of heat.

Also don't forget to put the stove onto a slab and if you have tucked it into a corner (as I have) you need to protect the walls of you building by reflecting the heat. I have got old aluminium printing sheets tacked to the wood walls, and then a 'surround' of fire bricks that came out of some scrapped storage heaters - it works v. effectively, and has given something to anchor the fire guard to as I either have two curious children or two idiotic dogs to keep away from it!

It made a real difference to me actually being able to do any effective work outside, you'll love it!

Lorna x

I would send it through the wall, with a nighty degree bend, you could send it through a peice of aspestolux (fake aspestos) which you can buy from any stove specialist, or good builders merchant, and cut it to the write size, width and hiegth of the fire, and cut a four inch hole for the flu to go throuhg and out, you couold then possibly mok up a metal section to fit flush with th aspestolux, and wrapping around the flu pipe.