Selfsufficientish.com

right I have grown some mustard growing and want to use it as green manure. It is the first time I have done this. I thought that I had to wait until a frost killed it then dig it in. There has been quite a few frosts and the mustard is still standing tall and does not seem to want to die down. Should I just dig it in anyway?

G'Day Andy,

As far as I am aware with green manure, the trick is to dig them under before they seed, so you don't get lots coming back up again, but you wnat lush growth that will break down quickly.

Over here you need to leave it a few weeks after digging in so the soil bugs can start breaking the material down otherwise it locks up the nitrogen and any plants put it will be slow to start. With your heftier winters I am not sure how long you would have to leave it to be OK

Nev

Hi Andy,

I'm currently doing a horticulture correspondence course. The section on green manures says that when you dig them in depends on the nature of your soil and what you're trying to achieve.

If you have a light soil then the most benefit is derived from digging the crop in when it's still soft and green. For a heavy clay soil you would let it get stalky first.

Other than that it just depends on when you're planning to use the soil - you need to dig the green manure in a few weeks before sowing or planting. This is especially true for Hungarian Grazing Rye, which contains a substance which inhibits seed germination.

Emma

cheers

I had actually let it get stalky and they were just about to seed so looks like I have got it in time. I dug them yesterday. I have really thick clay soil so perfect really.

Thanks again for the advice. The course you mention fluffymuppet/Emma sounds intriguing could you tell me more?

Hi Andy,

I'm doing the RHS General course with the Horticultural Correspondence Course - they do a 'green' option which covers organic growing (http://www.hccollege.co.uk/RHSGG1.htm).

I've got to the 5th unit, which is trees and shrubs. I'm not finding it particularly interesting as this is horticulture at its most conventional - with vegetables grown in straight lines and a reliance on farmyard manure which many people these days (including me) would have trouble getting hold of. The next four units might be more interesting though, as there's some stuff on plant propagation, plant science and pests and diseases.

Correspondence courses are OK as long as you're self-motivating and can find the time to put the work in. This one is quite flexible as they don't really set any deadlines and you work at your own pace. The idea is that when you have finished the course you are prepared to take the RHS General exam, but I have no plans to do so at the moment.

Emma